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Thread: What Motor oil do you use?

  1. #1

    Default What Motor oil do you use?

    A quick question...I use Pennzoil 10-30w oil and it seems to be just fine. I have started to get some engine tick which means i need to change the oil. On the pointy board, alot of those folks use like a 5-30W. I'm wondering if i should change what I use. This is not a synthetic vs standard motor oil thread! :) I'm just wondering what some of ya'll use....
    Nothing like the whine of a SC at full throttle!

  2. #2

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    royal purple 20/50 in the summer10/40 in the winter
    Blah blah blah!

  3. #3

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    20/50? Man sounds like i've been using the wrong stuff! DAMN
    Nothing like the whine of a SC at full throttle!

  4. #4
    Prefers his T-Bones Deboned... jeff_man's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by titanescape View Post
    A quick question...I use Pennzoil 10-30w oil and it seems to be just fine. I have started to get some engine tick which means i need to change the oil. On the pointy board, alot of those folks use like a 5-30W. I'm wondering if i should change what I use. This is not a synthetic vs standard motor oil thread! :) I'm just wondering what some of ya'll use....
    Rotella Synthetic 5W40 T6 for race cars / track cars. 3 track days per change.
    Rotella Synthetic Blend 10w30 T5 for daily drivers 7500 miles.

    Mr BRG sent a bunch on oil analysis and whored up the oil forums to get that info

    Do a motor flush and change to the Rotella, can pick up a gal at walmart for $16-20 pending on if you go T5 or T6.

    also pick up a WIX - Oil Filter Part # 51356, it's not listed for a miata if you have oreilly look it up so write down then number.

    Quote Originally Posted by MiataMike View Post
    royal purple 20/50 in the summer10/40 in the winter
    why are you wasting your money of royal purple?

  5. #5

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    I'm running the Rotella T6 5W40 in my daily (which sees about 1 track weekend a year).
    For lifter tick, I found the best solution is a '99 head...

    Oil Filter Part # 51356, it's not listed for a miata if you have oreilly look it up so write down then number.
    You can find it if you look up the Mazda Millenia with the 2.3SC engine. Same threads and diameter, but it's a bit deeper (higher capacity, more cleaning capability). I'm going to switch to these once I run out of my stack of Purolator Golds...
    '94 Black & Black & Tan
    '99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...

    Dyno Days
    8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
    8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
    8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno

    Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds

  6. #6

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    Royal purple is the only oil that my car likes. I use a heavier oil because thinner oil will seap past my rings at startup until my motor warms up enough for my pistons to expand
    Blah blah blah!

  7. #7

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    I like the lifter tick. It's a good reminder that I need to change the oil in the Miata & Element.

    *Really I hate it as well, but I learned to deal with it.

    Oh, to contribute, I use Mobile 1, 10w30 (I think) and WIX filter. I keep saying i'm going to autocross, and do a track day but haven't jumped back in yet, just a daily for now.
    '94 C-Package Black & Tan | MS3x | exhintake | USDM Tein Monoflex 10/8k | My 8 year roadster evolution

  8. #8

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    Do a motor flush and change to the Rotella, can pick up a gal at walmart for $16-20 pending on if you go T5 or T6.


    Motor flush? Help me out here...
    Nothing like the whine of a SC at full throttle!

  9. #9

    Default

    I didn't flush anything when I switched... I just switched.
    '94 Black & Black & Tan
    '99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...

    Dyno Days
    8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
    8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
    8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno

    Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by MiataMike View Post
    Royal purple is the only oil that my car likes. I use a heavier oil because thinner oil will seap past my rings at startup until my motor warms up enough for my pistons to expand
    That oil kind of sucks though when compared to Rotella T6. Are you sure its the rings and not the turbo oil seals? Tell me about your .032" oil feed reducer.
    TXMC: Drinkin, shootin, racin!

  11. #11

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    You guys are going to really laugh at me. As tehjeffman said, I tested a few oils and Rotella is the king. I do 3-track days only due to fuel contamination which effectively reduces it to a 5w30. So I drain that oil, strain it with a screen, and pour it into my daily and run 5000 miles on it.

    At this point you're thinking I'm crazy...but I submitted a sample of the twice-used oil from the daily to Blackstone and after 5000 miles as "Rotella 5w30" and "the oil looks good but the high fuel contamination has sheared the oil, which leads us to believe you used 5w40." They even said "go 7500 miles next time!" lol I was pretty shocked.

    If I had a brand-new motor for this car I'd be hard pressed to not do this again.
    TXMC: Drinkin, shootin, racin!

  12. #12

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    I've checked out the turbo seals (ball bearing turbo with maybe 50k), replaced all the oil lines to and from the turbo, can't find a leak anywhere. But the oil just disappears, the head has been rebuilt, oil catch cans are empty...I'm at a loss

    I can get rotella for free most of the time through a friend but rp just last longer in my car
    Blah blah blah!

  13. #13
    Prefers his T-Bones Deboned... jeff_man's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by titanescape View Post
    Do a motor flush and change to the Rotella, can pick up a gal at walmart for $16-20 pending on if you go T5 or T6.


    Motor flush? Help me out here...
    did a flush at some point and the lifter noise got quiter. just do it once and see, it's on $5

  14. #14
    Chassis Designer
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    Default

    Another user of the Rotella T6 5w40. It helped with both hot and cold lifter tick. After the fourth autocross run in 100+ heat I was getting some tick back. By the time I got home it was gone. Probably due for a change, it's been a while.

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by MiataMike View Post
    I've checked out the turbo seals (ball bearing turbo with maybe 50k), replaced all the oil lines to and from the turbo, can't find a leak anywhere. But the oil just disappears, the head has been rebuilt, oil catch cans are empty...I'm at a loss

    I can get rotella for free most of the time through a friend but rp just last longer in my car
    Try a .032" oil feed restrictor, I bet the problem goes away. My turbo did this a few times before I put the restrictor in it. The seals will leak with too much pressure, then seal as they warm-up and start spinning. Been there, done that.
    TXMC: Drinkin, shootin, racin!

  16. #16

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    I've been running 10-W40 (Mobil 1) in mine but I used the Rotella T Syn a lot in my motorcycles so might switch back over to that for the Miata :)

    MrBRG are you running any kind of Forced Induction or is your motor NA?
    2004 Saturn Ion Redline
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  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by jeff_man View Post
    did a flush at some point and the lifter noise got quiter. just do it once and see, it's on $5
    Ah... on your NA?

    Several years ago when I was running Mobil 1, I ran it for a little while with a quart of Mobil 1 ATF to flush things out. Seemed to work for a little while but I never got rid of that stupid lifter tick... grrrr.
    '94 Black & Black & Tan
    '99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...

    Dyno Days
    8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
    8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
    8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno

    Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds

  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by jeff_man View Post
    did a flush at some point and the lifter noise got quiter. just do it once and see, it's on $5
    You had lifter noise on your solid lifter head?
    Quote Originally Posted by jeepinbanditrider View Post
    I've been running 10-W40 (Mobil 1) in mine but I used the Rotella T Syn a lot in my motorcycles so might switch back over to that for the Miata :)

    MrBRG are you running any kind of Forced Induction or is your motor NA?
    My track car has a turbo and the street car is stock.
    TXMC: Drinkin, shootin, racin!

  19. #19
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    Default Oil opinions

    Several years ago I decided to simplify some small parts of my life. Since then, I have used Syn 1, 0w40, in everything. It goes in my stock '03 Miata, the Jeep Liberty, and the Ford V10 powered motorhome. The Liberty has a little over 80,000 miles, 70,000+ on the Miata, and a bit over 30,000 on "The Coupe." The John Deere lawn tractor seems fine with it too, but it has far fewer miles.

    Since I usually change it at around 3,000 miles (less in the lawn tractor) I doubt that it really matters much what I use.

    Jim

  20. #20

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    So mr brg what is it about the Rotella Synthetic that makes it more better than other offerings?

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