royal purple 20/50 in the summer10/40 in the winter
A quick question...I use Pennzoil 10-30w oil and it seems to be just fine. I have started to get some engine tick which means i need to change the oil. On the pointy board, alot of those folks use like a 5-30W. I'm wondering if i should change what I use. This is not a synthetic vs standard motor oil thread! :) I'm just wondering what some of ya'll use....
Nothing like the whine of a SC at full throttle!
royal purple 20/50 in the summer10/40 in the winter
Blah blah blah!
20/50? Man sounds like i've been using the wrong stuff! DAMN
Nothing like the whine of a SC at full throttle!
Rotella Synthetic 5W40 T6 for race cars / track cars. 3 track days per change.
Rotella Synthetic Blend 10w30 T5 for daily drivers 7500 miles.
Mr BRG sent a bunch on oil analysis and whored up the oil forums to get that info
Do a motor flush and change to the Rotella, can pick up a gal at walmart for $16-20 pending on if you go T5 or T6.
also pick up a WIX - Oil Filter Part # 51356, it's not listed for a miata if you have oreilly look it up so write down then number.
why are you wasting your money of royal purple?
I'm running the Rotella T6 5W40 in my daily (which sees about 1 track weekend a year).
For lifter tick, I found the best solution is a '99 head...
You can find it if you look up the Mazda Millenia with the 2.3SC engine. Same threads and diameter, but it's a bit deeper (higher capacity, more cleaning capability). I'm going to switch to these once I run out of my stack of Purolator Golds...Oil Filter Part # 51356, it's not listed for a miata if you have oreilly look it up so write down then number.
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds
Royal purple is the only oil that my car likes. I use a heavier oil because thinner oil will seap past my rings at startup until my motor warms up enough for my pistons to expand
Blah blah blah!
I like the lifter tick. It's a good reminder that I need to change the oil in the Miata & Element.
*Really I hate it as well, but I learned to deal with it.
Oh, to contribute, I use Mobile 1, 10w30 (I think) and WIX filter. I keep saying i'm going to autocross, and do a track day but haven't jumped back in yet, just a daily for now.
'94 C-Package Black & Tan | MS3x | exhintake | USDM Tein Monoflex 10/8k | My 8 year roadster evolution
Do a motor flush and change to the Rotella, can pick up a gal at walmart for $16-20 pending on if you go T5 or T6.
Motor flush? Help me out here...
Nothing like the whine of a SC at full throttle!
I didn't flush anything when I switched... I just switched.
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds
You guys are going to really laugh at me. As tehjeffman said, I tested a few oils and Rotella is the king. I do 3-track days only due to fuel contamination which effectively reduces it to a 5w30. So I drain that oil, strain it with a screen, and pour it into my daily and run 5000 miles on it.
At this point you're thinking I'm crazy...but I submitted a sample of the twice-used oil from the daily to Blackstone and after 5000 miles as "Rotella 5w30" and "the oil looks good but the high fuel contamination has sheared the oil, which leads us to believe you used 5w40." They even said "go 7500 miles next time!" lol I was pretty shocked.
If I had a brand-new motor for this car I'd be hard pressed to not do this again.
TXMC: Drinkin, shootin, racin!
I've checked out the turbo seals (ball bearing turbo with maybe 50k), replaced all the oil lines to and from the turbo, can't find a leak anywhere. But the oil just disappears, the head has been rebuilt, oil catch cans are empty...I'm at a loss
I can get rotella for free most of the time through a friend but rp just last longer in my car
Blah blah blah!
Another user of the Rotella T6 5w40. It helped with both hot and cold lifter tick. After the fourth autocross run in 100+ heat I was getting some tick back. By the time I got home it was gone. Probably due for a change, it's been a while.
TXMC: Drinkin, shootin, racin!
I've been running 10-W40 (Mobil 1) in mine but I used the Rotella T Syn a lot in my motorcycles so might switch back over to that for the Miata :)
MrBRG are you running any kind of Forced Induction or is your motor NA?
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'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds
Several years ago I decided to simplify some small parts of my life. Since then, I have used Syn 1, 0w40, in everything. It goes in my stock '03 Miata, the Jeep Liberty, and the Ford V10 powered motorhome. The Liberty has a little over 80,000 miles, 70,000+ on the Miata, and a bit over 30,000 on "The Coupe." The John Deere lawn tractor seems fine with it too, but it has far fewer miles.
Since I usually change it at around 3,000 miles (less in the lawn tractor) I doubt that it really matters much what I use.
Jim
So mr brg what is it about the Rotella Synthetic that makes it more better than other offerings?