Miata Sway Bar Mounts 1/2 Off!
Had a funky creaking noise in the POSIV so I decided to investigate it this afternoon.
Yep that is the passenger side front sway bar mount. The drivers side has a small crack in it as well.
It looks like I got myself a project.
Pulled the front bar out of the car so I can drive the car to work this week.
This is why I always recommend this or at least these if stock autocross rules are important to you.
Mine were cracked on the Checker car when I got it. I drilled the spot welds out, unbolted them and bolted new (used) swaybar mounts in. I also added the RB sway bar brace kit linked above.
I think I recommended them to you but you hummed and hawed saying you'd make your own. Hmmm....
Going to get it some AWR (AKA Mazdaspeed) mounts and beef things up.
http://store.awrracing.com/products/...005-Miata.html
BTDT. Your car has power steering, right? If so, you will need to relocate the power steering lines. It can be done, but it's a PITA.
Also, I couldn't get the long bolt out when I put my new shocks on the car. I'm working on a solution to the long bolt removal problem.
Good luck.
On the track, I am fearless.
If you were as slow as me, you wouldn't be afraid either.
1994 M Edition
CSP 67
True. But your solution seemed like a $100.00 band-aid to me.Originally Posted by black roadster
I think I recommended them to you but you hummed and hawed saying you'd make your own. Hmmm....
I Figured if I ever broke em I'd put in the SCCA Stock legal AWR parts.
Running Autocross since 2001 and this is the first sway bar mount failure I've had over 3 different Miatas ('92, '99, & '94)
Did you get the mounts with the open end for the power steering lines?
Open ended reinforced sway bar brackets allow the option of putting power steering hoses through the bracket.
Yes.
On the track, I am fearless.
If you were as slow as me, you wouldn't be afraid either.
1994 M Edition
CSP 67
I appreciate your insight!
Dougie has always been a man of few words.
Are they weld-able?
Slow down and you won't tear up your equipment.......crazy younguns!
Right.
On the track, I am fearless.
If you were as slow as me, you wouldn't be afraid either.
1994 M Edition
CSP 67
UPS tracking shows these will not be in my hands until Thursday.....
Sorry Sammmmm no welding required.
The car rides way nicer without the front bar in it so I'm thinking it had been binding for a while.... Don't forget to lube your bars early and often kids!
Good information here -> http://www.dfwmiata.com/threads/5468...ushing-Binding
I look at it as a preventive measure and I have yet to hear of anyone tearing their mounts with the RB Sway bar brace or even just the blocks installed. The blocks by themselves are SCCA legal and a much less expensive option than the AWR mounts.
I still feel part of this failure was due to lack of maintenance on my part.
Tons of autocrosses in my past and this is my first swaybar mount failure.
Live & Learn!
FWIW - Even Goodwin says -Link - http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda...t/20-1021.html
Last edited by POS Racing; 09-18-2012 at 09:13 AM.
Hey cone-cerned how did you undo the spot welds?
I saw this little gem on Harbor freights website:
Link - http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...ot+weld+cutter
Or I have a grinder.
If your careful you can just use a regular drill, but those bits are awesome.
You can also get short 1/8" dual ended pilot drills.
Pilot drill then go back with a larger bit and a chisel.
No zipties or rubberbands required.
What Stevan said. I just used a regular drill bit, I don't recall the size.
I had to straighten the metal bend in the PW line and add some hose to reconnect to the pump.
The OE mount looks like this _ and the AWR mount looks like this L . The long bolt head hits on the angle and won't go through the mount like it does with the OE mount.
Call me if you have questions, my old brain may remember some of the install.
On the track, I am fearless.
If you were as slow as me, you wouldn't be afraid either.
1994 M Edition
CSP 67
I used this HF tool and this thing is worth every penny! Spend the $5 and save you a lot of time. I dip this thing in cutting oil and the weld came off in under a minute. The tip to put the new mount in is to use a cissor jack. I have the car on jack stands and brace the rear at the diff w my racing jack. Than I line up the mount and slowly raise it into place with the cissor jack. This is much easier than rubber mallet method.Hey cone-cerned how did you undo the spot welds?
I saw this little gem on Harbor freights website:
Link - http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...ot+weld+cutter
Or I have a grinder.
Gabriel
^ Thanks for the info Gab!
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